Tiger expedition to the Sunderbans

I’ve been coming backwards and forward to Kolkata for a long time and have longed to see the Bengal Tigers in the Sunderbans, just three and a half hours from the city. This trip I decided it was time for an adventure so booked a two day, one night stay through Tour de Sunderbans

The booking process was easy, transferring INR 2,000 to their account in advance and then paying the remaining INR 2,000 on arrival (£40 was not bad for an all inclusive weekend adventure). I was picked up at 9am opposite the entrance to Science City in Kolkata.

Top tip – if you didn’t get breakfast go to the other side of the street at the Science City entrance, near the dinosaur: there are stalls where you can get toast, chai and fried egg or an omelette for a bargain price.

I joined my fellow passengers in a tempo traveler for the three and a half hour bounce along the Basanti ‘Highway’ to Godkhali – the end of the road. Supplied with a two litre water bottle and a sandwich breakfast (the latter of which I declined as my mother in law had already made sure I was well fed on departure), we spent the next 106km dodging people, cows, dogs, rickshaws, autos, cars and buses, even a gaggle of geese – it was like being in a live computer game –one mistake on the behalf of the driver and you would lose your last life! If you are a nervous passage then close your eyes and take a nap – it’s not for the fainthearted! There was a tea stop on route and thanks to my guardian angels, I survived the journey. At Godkhali there was just enough time for some coconut water (INR 20) before we boarded the boat for Gosaber in South 24 Paraganas District of West Bengal.

Looking at the overcrowded boat as it came into the jetty with people, luggage and even a motorbike made me think of the refugee boats coming to Europe.

It certainly did not look safe, but then I’ve come to realise that safety is not a priority in India – you do what you have to do to survive. If I wanted to join the Sunderban Safari then I had to board the boat. Since there were no seats you either balanced crouching on the edge of the boat or you chose to stand. I took the former.

Unfortunately I chose a spot right near the engine; this not only meant having black smoke  puffing at me for the 10 minute crossing, but also that I got to see the crew bailing out the water from the leaking boat…… I said it was an adventure but this bit was certainly not an ecotour!!

Top tip – don’t sit in the middle of the boat by the engine!

When we arrived in Gosaber we trekked through the hustle and bustle of the market to our next mode of transport across the island.

Top tip – travel light, you will need to carry your own bags and your water bottle for a good ten minute walk through the busy market area.

Next it was time for our ‘Harley Davidson’…. A motorbike rickshaw used for transporting goods and people. It bounced us to the jetting on the other side of the island. Bone shaker is an understatement. It’s certainly not advisable for anyone with a back problem. However, it’s how the locals travel so a good way to experience rural Indian life.

Top tip – sit at the back so you can dangle your legs of the back and get the best view.

After our rattling ride observing village life from the back of the motor-rickshaw we arrived at the boat that was going to take us to the backpackers eco-lodge.  Just after 1.30pm we were shown to our mud huts.

If you want a luxury resort, this is not for you. It’s meant to give visitors the opportunity to experience life in an Indian village so it’s a no frills accommodation. The hut is clean and has an ensuite toilet and cold water shower. There is soap, a mirror and a comfortable bed with a mosquito net. Don’t expect freshly painted walls (I reiterate, it’s a mud hut) but it was clean with clean sheets on the bed and a blanket. There was also a fan (although definitely not needed in December I’m sure it would be beneficial in the summer months). There are lights and one electricity socket, although power only came on after dark and we were told to conserve it as the site uses solar power (although thought I heard a generator somewhere).

Top tip – essentials to pack for the trip include your passport, a towel, mosquito repellent (although I did not see many possibly because it was winter season), warm cloths for December and January, and a torch. If you like a sheet between you and your blanket (not common in rural India) then bring your own. In December/January it gets cold at night so warm PJs are advisable.

After a short rest we all came together for lunch, a feast of rice, dal, kerala (bitter gourd), mixed veg, fish, papad and chutney. Excellent traditional home cooked Bengali food. Then at 3pm we took a walk around the village. It was time of the rice harvesting so everyone was busy.

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We then walked along the embankment which was built by the locals to protect their land. Unfortunately over the decades man has cut down the mangroves, which had provided natural protection against erosion. So as well as new planting of mangroves man-made barricades are also needed to protect their crops and their homes, especially during the summer cyclones.

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As the sun began to set we took a boat across the waters to explore the mangrove forests by water. Lots of bird life, and hundreds of crabs stuck to the trunks of the mangrove trees.

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Our guide, Om, picked up a crab unaware of the fear of the guy sitting next to him, who jumped up and jumped off our boat onto the one passing by, the shock causing one passenger at the back to lose his balance and he just managed to right himself in time to prevent falling into the water: a hilarious sight that had us all in hysterics – that would have been great for YouTube!

The man-paddled boat ride was so peaceful; we watched the sunset and the bustle of India washed away. We relaxed in serenity.

Returning to shore we took jungle ginger tea and rested in our mud huts. At 7pm were joined by a few of the villagers who serenaded us with traditional music for an hour, which was followed by another Bengali feast, but with chicken instead of fish. Then it was early to bed, under the thatch, tucked into the mosquito net ready for our 6am start the following morning.  A perfect time to lie in total darkness, pray and reflect.

Top tip: if you want to buy some fresh honey (madhu) picked from the jungle then ask Om in the evening and he’ll make sure they bring some in the morning. It’s INR 350 a kg and will be provided in a plastic water bottle for you to take home. You can’t get fresher or more organic!

Om rapped on the door at 5.45am with the early morning wake-up call. Jungle chai and biscuits was available for those who needed something to get them going, then just after 6.30am we left (with honey and all our belongings) on the boat for the Sunderban reserve. It was a cold and misty morning, but the mist gave an aura of mystery to the place and provided some great photo shots.

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At the entrance to the reserve Om, our excellent guide and tour organiser, took our passports and dealt with the necessary documentation and then we proceeded to the beauty of the Sunderban reserve.

 

A few facts:

• Sunderban means ‘beautify forest’
• The Sunderbans house the largest single block of tidal halophytic mangrove forest in the world, covering over 10,000 square km of India and Bangladesh, in the delta of the Bay of Bengal
• It’s a UNESCO world heritage site
• It’s the largest reserve for the Bengal Tiger with an estimated 403 man-eating tigers, who kill at least 30 Indians each year plus numerous Bangladeshis (these are official figure – in reality it’s probably more since many people are in the jungle illegally and therefore their deaths go unreported)

From our vantage point on board the boat and at the two watchtowers we saw:

Beautify scenery

White spotted deer

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Monkeys

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A monitor lizard

Lots of  hungry crocodiles

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Red fiddler crabs

And plenty of birds

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Unfortunately the Royal Bengal Tiger was rather elusive and we only got to see his footprints.  It would have been amazing to have seen one of these rare creatures with males weighting between 180-280kg and females 115-285kg.  Om last saw one about six weeks ago walking along the mudflats on the beach. They have a life expectancy in the wild of about 20 years, an average litter of 3 offspring and prey on white spotted deer, wild boar, rhesus macaque (monkeys) and occasional humans.

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It was a really relaxing day on the boat, with puri and veg for breakfast and another Bengali feast for lunch, while looking at the wonderful view and listening to the sounds of the jungle.  It’s one of the best places I’ve been to in India for beauty and peace.

In the evening the cruise boat took us back to Godkalhi and then we braved the night journey back to Kolkata. In a rather rickety vehicle with no seat belt or horn I can certainly say this was more scary than jumping out of an aeroplane whilst waiting for your parachute to open.  I now know the value of a horn in India – it has the same importance as a brake in the UK! How we survived this rather hair-raising journey I do not know, but it certainly dragged me back into the bustle of life, arriving in Kolkata about 8.30pm.   The peace and beauty of the Sunderbans was great while it lasted and a great reminder of the amazing creation we are part of.  If you are in Kolkata – take a detour for the weekend, its worth it!

 

 

A day exploring Pondicherry (of Life of Pi fame)

Pondicherry, it is believed, is a French corruption of the more ancient name of the town of Puducheri. The French were the fourth colonial power to reside on these Indian shores, following the Portuguese (16^th Century), the Danes (c. 1616) and soon after the Dutch with whom the French battled for control in the late 1600s. Then they then were conquered by the British in the late 1700s and Pondicherry was eventually returned to them in 1816. French rule continued for another 138 years, with them clinging on to the territory even after the rest of India gained independence from the British in 1947. It was not until November 1^st 1954 that Pondicherry finally became a Union Territory under Indian rule.

This Indian coastal city on the Bay of Bengal, 160 km south of Chennai, still has evidence of its former French colonial roots. Take a walk along the 1.5km promenade….

and you come across the French War Memorial

 and Le Café

side by side the 4.25m statue of Gandhi – just to remind you that you are still in India!

‘White town’ houses buildings with French Style architecture and tea rooms like ‘La Maison Rose’ where is it more common to hear French spoken than Tamil.

In fact there are over 55 languages spoken in the 290km² area with Tamil, Telegu, Malayalam, French and English being the five official languages, many of which can be heard as you wander down the promenade, either during the day….

Or during the hustle and bustle of an evening….

Peace and quiet is not easy to find in Indian cities, streets are not only the domain of cars, bikes and autos beeping their horns, but also dogs, people….

And cows….

Including those being milked on the street.

It is no wonder that churches and temples are so common.

….places to try and escape the noise of the horns, traffic and chatter to concentrate on the divine.

Other spaces to escape the struggles of daily life and meditate on the Almighty or to spend time with the family include gazing at the waves from the promenade….

or sitting under the trees in Bharat Park….

Although even here your peace is likely to be disturbed by the caws of the House Crows

and the squawks of the Common Myna birds.

If you are lucky you might get to see a Tawny Coster butterfly as you tuck into your ice-cream.

There is no zoo in Pondicherry (despite what the Life of Pi may have led you to believe) so another option to try to escape the city noise and get back to nature is to visit the rather dilapidated Botanical Gardens.  A lot of it is overgrown, but if you are lucky you can get glimpses of Common Crow and Dark Blue Tiger butterflies.

And you might get green fruits landing on your head as the Rose Ringed Parrokeets pluck them and throw them from the trees.

Make sure you don’t get run over by the ‘Joy Train’ through.

This mix of Indian and French makes Pondicherry an interesting stop on a trip around India.  Don’t miss drinking the juice of a green coconut….

pleasing the children by taking their photo…..

and exploring the stalls on the promenade in the evening….

And as your roam the streets at night…. watch out for Bengal Tigers 😉

Then after a tasty Indian feast return to The Richmond, an oasis from the heat, noise and smells of this cross cultural city.

Before sleep kneel down and thank God for blessing you with the wonderful luxuries you have compared to the many thousands of people, just outside your door, who have no air conditioning, limited food, no clean toilet and no refreshing shower in their makeshift homes or on the street.

We are truly blessed!

Related articles

• Pondicherry: Postcard from a corner of India that is forever France (earthcallingblog.wordpress.com)
• Thoughts on “Life of Pi” (snippetstudios.wordpress.com)

 

History on our doorstep

I’ve travelled the world to see historical sites, but have driven past this sign every morning on my way to work for the last five years and have never taken time to find out what is on my doorstep.

Well today was the day!

Situated just south of Peterborough Flag Fen gives you an opportunity to explore what life was like 3,000 years ago in Britain. During the 1960s and early 1970s evidence of Bronze Age farming was discovered on the site.  But is was not until a chilly day in November 1982 that archeologist France Pryor noticed an oak post in the mud in the dyke near Fengate. The post had been worked with a small axe.  Further exploration found this to be part of a timber platform the size of Wembley stadium, dating back to 1350 BC.

This causeway was made up of over 60,000 timbers and stretched for a kilometre from Whittlesey Island to Fengate (part of what is now the city of Peterborough) across the wet fenland. It is presumed that the small island part way across was where religious rituals were performed.  Flag Fen houses a small museum of artifacts and is trying to preserve some of these ancient timbers….

You can also see examples of two round houses, giving a flavour of what life was like in the Bronze and Iron Age.

This is the one depicting a house of the Bronze Age, with the meadow on the roof 😉

And the other is depicting an Iron Age roundhouse…. just like being back in rural Africa…

Then there were their boats made from hollowed logs…

This is a replica, but original  Must Farm Boats were discovered at nearby Must Farm and are in the process of being restored on the site.

Then as well as seeing an exposed section of the Roman road known as the Fen Causeway, you can walk along a reconstruction of a prehistoric droveway.  This is a great place for nature spotting.

Look at the 7-spoted ladybird…

Comma….

Meadow Brown…

A small tortoiseshell caterpillar…

And lots of his friends…

Then along the dyke were plenty of birds singing in the reeds…. although it was difficult to spot them…

..including juvenile Goldfinches…

As well as Mute swans….

There is a lakeside walk where I heard lots of action but is was hard to see the birds through the reeds. I did spot lots of Harlequin ladybirds though; a very interesting find and more will follow in my next blog. Here is just one as a taster…

Back near the visitor’s centre were the Soay Sheep…

…..beautiful waterlilies…

and some very friendly swallows…

….. then you can sit on the cafe veranda and admire the view.

All in all, an interesting few hours exploring a site of historical and natural interest, just 8 miles from my door.  I wonder what else I am missing?

Click here for more information on Flag Fen and for a location Map

 

Taking time to listen

What is prayer all about? Until a few weeks ago I think I would have said “talking to God”, because that is what I had always done during my prayer time…. jabber, jabber, jabber.  So much talking that God could not get a word in edgeways.  I was a bit like the bumble bee, buzzing here and there and never giving God any peace.

Do you pray like a buzzing bee, noisily trying to annoy God into action to address your desires?

I would reel off my shopping list of things that I wanted God’s help with, thank Him for a few things (if I remembered) and then mentally tick off that I had had my prayer time. Then it was time to flutter onto the next thing in my busy schedule.

Are you like a butterfly, unable to keep still long enough to focus on God?

Over the last few weeks I’ve come to realise that my prayer life has been more about ME than about God. I have been so busy talking I’ve never given time for God to speak. How can I expect God to guide my life if I am not taking time to listen to what he says?  You can’t have much of a relationship if one person never listens to the other.

But the light has now dawned….

,,,,and I have come to realise the importance of being still and listening.

Now my prayer time is not so much God’s todo list, rather its asking Him to reveal his message to me through the scriptures. I ask God to speak to me and as I open the Bible He takes me to a passage and I reflect on it.  It’s an exciting spiritual journey that I am just at the start of and amazing things are happening which I am entering in a journal.  For example, many of the passages I read last week were the focus of the sermon on Sunday – God-incidence!!!

However, I find being still at home difficult, there are too many distractions, my mind often wanders.  Yet spending time outside, looking and listening to the beauty of God’s creation is just what I need to still my mind and focus on the Almighty.

Staring at the grace and beauty of a butterfly……

,,,,,,or appreciating the colours, agility and song of a bird….

Looking up at the cloud formations in the heavens….

…. or listening to the wind blowing through the fields….

…..the lapping of the water as the moorhen swims through the reeds….

…..feeling the dew on my feet and the warmth of the morning sun on my skin….

These things enable me to be still and rest in God; and oh what peace it brings!

Oswald Chamber states that “the point of prayer is not to get answers from God but to have oneness with Him”.

So if you feel distanced from God, ask yourself whether it is because you are not giving Him space to come into your life. Prayer is about a relationship with God, a special time of coming together.  It does not have to be full of talk and noise, it can just be resting in each others company and listening to what He has to say.

Even Jesus took time out to go to a quiet place to be with God and to listen to him (Luke 4:42).  So if it is good for Jesus then it must surely be good for us.

Find a peaceful place, be still and take time to listen, so he can refill you with His strength and reveal his plans for you.

“Be still, and know that I am God” Psalm 46:10

“For I know the plans I have for you,” declares the Lord, “plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future.” Jeremiah 29:11

“Eye hath not seen, nor ear heard, neither have entered the heart of man, the things that God has prepared for those who love him.” 1 Corinthians 2:9

Great promises, so be still, listen and give God the time to share them with you….

 

Housebound

A day off, great!  A long walk, lots of photos…. or that was the plan.  However, the good ole British weather had other ideas.  Rain….. so no new pics today I thought.

However, amazingly rather than just the sparrows and starlings, we had some new visitors to the garden in the rain. And thanks to my birdie friend James I now know what they are called.

My first newcomer was a bit of a mystery.  My initial thought was that it was a blue tit, but it was missing the blue!

Now I realise that it is a juvenile and they are know to be more yellow. It had a good feast on the nuts…

And did lots of somersaults on the bird feeders… flitting from one to the other until the starlings scared it away.

The second new visitor stumped me.  I had no idea what is was…. I thought it might be some sort of thush, but was wrong.

This my friends is a Dunnock. It’s a small brown and grey bird, quiet and unobtrusive. I saw it on its own, creeping near to the bush, moving with a rather nervous, shuffling gait, flicking its wings as it went.

Some say it looks like a dull bird, but I was amazed to find out that it has a reputation for the bird with the most active sex life!! Dunnocks take just one-tenth of a second to copulate and have sex more than 100 times a day. Wow!!!  Never underestimate a Dunnock!

In between the rain showers I managed to take Buddy for a windy walk.  In the field were some small Skippers hanging on for dear life as the wind gust across their path.

One had just enough time to open its wings before the next gust came.

And I saw a quick glimpse of a small tortoiseshell, before it was also blown away….

Then in the trees was another new bird.  I’m still not sure what it is but am guessing at a female Chaffinch although the light was poor and it was spitting with rain so I may be wrong. Can anyone help?

What so you think?  Any other ideas?

So all in all, what I thought was going to be a washout turned into a day blessed with new species and nice pics. Thank you Lord.

 

Rain walk

I had planned a long walk for today after church but just before we set out I nipped into the garden for a few flower shots… this is one of the lilies on my pond…

And there were are some hover flies around a flower. I’m not hot on names of flowers, so comment if you know the name of this one….

Then the rain came down, so instead of venturing out I had a siesta.  When I woke from my Sunday slumbers the weather forecast said it would be sunny for the rest of the afternoon, the clouds threatened otherwise, but I decided to risk it.  Buddy and I headed past the gardens…. spotting a Red Admiral (but I was too slow to snap a photo) and a Comma on route…

There were some brilliant yellow flowers covered with bumble bees….

And then as we reached the fields it started to spit with rain.  Sheltering near the hedgerow I spotted yet another Comma, on the thistles this time.

Some bees…

And then the heavens opened!  Thank God for trees!  Buddy and I ran for cover and sheltered under this sycamore tree, waiting for the clouds to pass.

The rain seemed to bring out new creatures, like snails…..

And slugs……

But the treat of the day had to be this beetle.

I was amazed to find out that one fifth of the 1.5 million species on earth are beetles.  How come I have not seen them before on my walks…. am I not looking carefully enough? They range in size from less than a millimeter to over six inches.

This is a type of longhorn beetle. Can anyone shed light on the species?  I understand there are about 60 species of longhorn beetles in the UK and this is the first time I have ever seen one!

Next was a ringlet….

Then as I headed home I heard a noise in the trees and just turned round in time to spot a robin…

Then it was down past the field

and home. Praise God for the wonders of nature!

 

Garden squabbles

The bird feeder in the garden is great, but those birds don’t half eat!  Hubby thinks all the birds in the neighbourhood know there are food supplies in our garden; we are literally feeding not just the street, but the village.  Well, at least all the sparrows and starlings, since they seem to be the most frequent visitors.

Here are a few shots that show feeding time today…..

The sparrows are pretty harmless…

But the starlings can be really aggressive and are not happy when another one challenges its place at the fat ball feeder. Screeching, pecking and flapping of wings are among the strategies they use to protect their food source.

But aggressive as they are, they are still really beautiful birds….

Gradually the starlings allow the sparrows to take part in the feast….

And they feed peacefully together….

Until another angry starling breaks the peace…

 

Flying machines

It was a dull, very cloudy morning with a cool breeze as I walked Buddy and I didn’t think I would see much of interest. But even on a dull day it is surprising what creatures are out and about.  I’ve had quite a problem identifying some of them though so your comments are appreciated if you can help me out.

Sitting on the brambles was a large brown butterfly that I think might be a slightly shaggy Ringlet or a Meadow Brown – can someone help?  It seemed bigger than the other Ringlets I have seen and the rings were not very clear. It certainly liked the brambles.

Then there was a male Large White on a nearby leaf…. I could name that one!

Next to that a ?? fly, help!

And a flying yellow and black stripy thing… is it a hover fly?

With a friendly bee….

And then a few bigger flying creatures…. I guess the one below is a Herring Gull sitting on the chimney.

And sitting on the garden fence… is this Mrs Blackbird?

I wonder how many different flying creatures there are living in Crowland.  Clearly I have a lot of names to learn.,,,, help appreciated……

 

Windy Walk in the Fens

Its such a beautiful day today that I was really looking forward taking Buddy for a walk.  The wind was blowing but the sun was shining and the temperature was perfect for a walk in the countryside.

No sooner did I turn out of my drive then I met a bizarre sight…..  a purple balloon blowing in the wind…

The cat didn’t quite know what to make of it.  I’m not sure if it was more scared of the huge blowing balloon or Buddy the big golden retriever.

As we walk past the village gardens there are plenty of butterflies trying to shelter from the wind…. like this Small Tortoiseshell (Aglais Urticae)

And Small White (Pieris Rapae)….

Soon the houses give way to fenland….

With beautiful cloud formations…..

And plenty of butterflies trying to hide from the wind…

Swallows swoop down across the corn fields…..

And the Charm Tree rattles its chimes across the fens…..

A few Small Skippers cling on to the hedgerow…

The fields of oats harbour a Large White (Pieris Brassicae)…..

And beautiful poppies…

Oats stretch as far as the eyes can see and the sound of the wind blowing through them is so relaxing…

The colour as the sun shines on them reminds me of the warm of steaming porridge..

Buddy enjoys taking a short break as I admire the view.

As we head towards home there is time for a last gaze out across the fields…

A moment to watch the Wood Pigeon taking a rest on the post….

And then its time to head home.  How blessed I am to have such beauties of nature on my doorstep. It’s great to take time out to appreciate God’s creation.

 

Birds of Zomba, Malawi

The hills of Zomba in Malawi are a great place to rest and recuperate. I spent many house listening to and watching the birds and trying to identify them.

The first is a Woodland Kingfisher, a beautiful bird with a bright blue back, wing panel and tail. Its head, neck and underparts are white, and its shoulders are black. Although it is a “kingfisher”, it prefers drier habitats in more traditional woodland and can be far from water. It is often solitary but can occur in small groups

Then there is the Dark-capped (or Common or Black-eyed) Bulbul, a noisy bird that likes to sit at the tops of trees.

The next one is one of my favourites, the Blue Waxbill is a tiny bird, but so pretty.

You have to admire the beauty of the Yellow Bellied Sunbird……

And the cheek of the African Pied Crows….